Château de Saint Cosme is the leading estate of Gigondas and produces the benchmark wines of the appellation. The property has been in the hands of the Barruol family since 1570. Louis Barruol took over from his father in 1992 making a dramatic shift to quality and converting to biodynamics in 2010.

The estate lies in the heart of Gigondas where 15 hectares of vineyard grow in the shade of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain. In addition to the estate-grown wines labeled “Château de Saint Cosme,” Louis Barruol buys grapes from contracted growers, labeling these “négociant” wines simply as “Saint Cosme.”

Côte-Rôtie is produced from 100% Sérine, an ancient and local variety of Syrah that is markedly different from modern selections. It is more oval, with lots of space in the bunch, resulting in a very aromatic wine. It is sourced from the schist soils of Le Plomb, Besset, La Viallière, and Neve climats. These hillsides are among the steepest in France with an incline as much as 55 degrees. The wine is made with whole cluster fermentation from indigenous yeasts, aged for 12 months in 40% new 228-liter barrels, and bottled without fining or filtration.

In a nutshell:
Mature and complex Pauillac from the classified growth Chateau Clerc Milon, part of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild estates.

The lowdown:
Chateau Clerc Milon can trace its history back to before the Revolution and even as far ago as 1855 was deemed worthy of classification as a great Chateau. However during the mid twentieth century the estate had halved in size and had lost some of its reputation but was then bought by Baron Philippe de Rothschild of neighbouring Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (one of Clerc Milon’s other neighbours is the equally illustrious Chateau Lafite-Rothschild). The estate has undergone a massive transformation over the last few decades and has been brought back to its former glory, that the vineyards, the terroir demand.

Pastourelle de Clerc Milon is the estates second wine, with the 2010 being only the second release, and comes from those same vineyards made by the same team in the same winery. A blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, and Merlot, the wine is deep garnet in the glass. Aromas of dark fruits, cedar, touches of chocolate and dried flowers lead onto a smooth and complex medium-full body. Maturing nicely there are deep, developed dark fruit notes with savoury spice, drying tannins and balanced acidity followed by a long length.

When to drink:
Drink now through to 2030.