Nose: Walk into a dusty old library and someone’s scoffing bread and butter pudding – our first impression of this grande dame. There’s also gentle peach, peppery vanilla and salted caramel, with an oily smoke lurking in the background.

Palate: The smoke is stronger on the palate – like paraffin torches at Bonfire Night. There’s poppy seed bread, strawberry jam, black peppercorns and honeycomb, with a real herbal edge, too.

Finish: Gorgeously long and marvellously smoky – loads of rich, nutty cereal notes along with a milk chocolate quality.

Overall: Surprisingly silky and dessert-like. A not-too-sweet treat indeed.